Experiencing Martial Law and a Coup

Perhaps we were crazy. The trip was booked weeks ago. Our excitement level grew each week, looking forward to the first solo trip of 2 best friends. Despite the turmoil and uncertain situation, this was one of my favorite trips with lots of fun and new understanding of the Thai situation from the ground.

A day before we were due for departure, the Thai situation escalated to Martial Law being implemented. I would be lying if I said I was not worried at all. With our fingers crossed, we carried our luggages and boarded the flight to the land of mango sticky rice and Pad Thai.

Arriving under Martial Law

Despite the implementation of Martial Law, our first day in Thailand took off without a hitch. We arrived in Thailand on Wednesday and protests were scheduled to take place from Friday to Sunday. Jiani researched on the locations of protest we planned to stay clear of these areas. Unfortunately the tailors that I wanted to visit were along the street of protest. Thankfully we managed to get the shirt order on Wednesday itself and collect the shirt on Thursday, ahead of the protest that will begin on Friday.

First day of living through a Coup

Martial Law was only the beginning of the army's agenda.  As we collected my tailored shirts, we learnt that the army has taken control of the government, a coup was underway! I did not fully understand the implication of the situation. I mean, despite Martial Law being in place on our first day, Bangkok was calm and collected. Surely a  coup cannot be that bad?

I met a young Thai man on this very day. He was working at a store. I will always remember his big smile as he said "Did you now that we are now in a state of emergency?". His words and facial expression were contradictory. A state of emergency sounds like something to be worried about, yet here he was, smiling as though it was the happiest piece of news. I learnt that he was a supporter of the Yellow shirts and was happy with how the situation was unfolding. If a young man could be so happy with the Coup, perhaps the situation not that bad. I sought comfort in his words and expression that staying in Bangkok was still safe.

We visited Boots and learnt that they were closing in 30 minutes. It was only 7.30pm at that pointing time. A curfew was implemented by the army and everyone had to comply. No one was to be out on the streets between 10pm and 5am. Within hours of this announcement, businesses and the public adapted quickly. Departmental stores unanimously planned to close by 8pm. The BTS (Thai version of the subway) were closing at 9pm. Roads were jammed with cars trying to get home. The streets were filled with people rushing to catch trains, buses and ferries. Road side stores that would be in full bustle at midnight were packing their wares even before 9pm. Despite the very recent announcement, everything was an orderly rush. Locals knew what they had to do.

By 9pm, we were safely back in our hotel. Looking out from the hotel, roads were still packed with vehicles, a typical sight in a congested city like Bangkok. Jiani shared that you can be shot if you are out beyond 10pm. We confirmed this with a local who said that they might ask you why you are out, chase you away or just open fire. Beyond 10pm, it was our fault if we were out on the street and the army can shoot anyone and claim for it to be in self defense. At 10.30pm, there were still a few vehicles driving by. Apparently it is fine to be out if you have a reason to be out (rushing to the hospital, having a flight to catch, etc..) I still think it is just safer to stay indoors by 10pm  to avoid any ambiguity.

Media stations such as the radio and television were also controlled by the army. The only broadcast available was the army's programme.

Friday, protests persist

By 5am of Friday morning, the first night of curfew ended. Protests were planned for this very day. The army knew of this fact and banned any protest from taking place but what is Thailand without a protest.  The newsreported that a single gunshot was heard in the vicinity of Ma Boon Khrong Center (MBK Center). A new group of protestors emerged. They were not supporters of the red or yellow shirts but were protesting against the army's forceful takeover. We had not seen a single soldier throughout our trip but we saw a few on this very night. Soldiers were stationed along the roads with mini outpost built with camouflage. Protestors were sent home once again, the situation was still under control, under the army's control.

Mini military outpost in the back! 

(pardon the quality, this was taken in a hurry!)

Meeting a pro-government supporter

On our final day, we met a taxi driver who was a pro-government supporter. In his words, he said "the government is good, it supports people with no money". He envied Singapore and said that his country only favored the rich and want to kick the poor aside. On our journey, we had to go through the expressway which required payment of 50baht as tolls. This taxi driver was so poor that he could not even afford to pay the tolls first. He only had 40baht (SGD$1.60) on hand. I understood why he supports the government that helps the poor. At the same time, I learnt why a curfew was necessary. In his words, "before curfew, I will go boxing the army, now curfew cannot". Perhaps the army is stopping further violence and blood shed in the nation.

An interesting Thai perspective

I think the bigger question is what all these mean for the future of Thailand. A 30 year old man has already lived through 3 Coups -- 1992, 2006 and now, 2014. Most of us have never experienced a single coup. This man wondered how many more Coups he would live through. I suggested that troubles might end with the end of Thaksin's regime but this man thought otherwise.

"Corruption is in each of us. If I get caught breaking a traffic regulation, I pay the officer to settle it for me and he will let me go. Corruption is entrenched in our culture. Even if Thaksin was dead today, does it really mean that Thailand will be rid of its problems? Our issues are too deeply rooted and too easy to blame the leaders."

Thailand, a nation that started its march towards democracy decades ago but resort to violence to maintain peace in its present day still has a long way to go.


Note: This article is merely a compilation of mini stories I gained during my stay in Bangkok and is not representative of the current status in Thailand.